Seashell doily

Seashell doily crochet pattern diagram is available online for free. It is made in fractal crochet technique which is not difficult with its repetition of double crochet stitches and chains. It also involves lots of increases and counting stitches and this is the reason fractal crochet is also called math-based crochet. I was asked to make a tutorial of fractal crochet and my favorite design is the seashell!

One of the most popular fractal doilies is the S-shaped one designed by Essi Varis. Here is her fun description of fractal crochet technique:

Enjoy crocheting? But feeling uncomfortable with that lacy, grandmotherish vintage feel that crocheted decorations tend to have? Fear not! For what is crocheting but algorithms? And what could result into cleaner, more modern shapes than the simplest of mathematics? This is not your Great Auntie’s doily – though it might as well be. Hardly anything is more timeless than fractals, after all.
Whether you are a proud nerd or simply someone who appreciates the secret symmetries of whirlpools and sea shells, here’s a unique decoration piece for you!

Helpful tip! The seashell doily doily tends to curl a lot while you are making it, it’s because of these many double crochet stitches. Don’t let it hold you back, keep crocheting and block your finished doily. I usually make it wet, stretch it out on blocking mat and pin it. I also use some spray starch to give it extra firm shape. Here is how my doily looked like during “work in progress”:

Please share the photo of your seashell doily on my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/handmadebyraine/
or Instagram @handmadebyraine.

VIDEO TUTORIAL OF SEASHELL DOILY

WRITTEN PATTERN OF SEASHELL DOILY

I used Aunt Lydia’s crohet thread size 10 and crochet hook size 1.75 mm. You will need 2 balls of Aunt Lydia’s crochet thread. The doily measures about 16 inches wide and 15 inches long.

Abbreviations:
R = round
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
dc = double crochet
beg = beginning

Ch 16 and sl st in 1st ch to make a ring.
R1 – ch 3 (counts as 1st dc) and dc 31 in the ring, sl st in 3rd beg ch, total 32 dc.
R2 – ch 4 (counts as 1st dc + ch), *dc in next st and ch 1, repeat from*, sl st in 3rd beg ch.
R3 – ch 5 (counts as 1st dc + 2ch), *dc in next st and ch 2, repeat from*, sl st in 3rd beg ch.
R4-5 – ch 6 (counts as 1st dc + 3ch), *dc in next st and ch 3, repeat from*, sl st in 3rd beg ch.
R6 – ch 7 (counts as 1st dc + 4ch), *dc in next st and ch 4, repeat from*, sl st in 3rd beg ch.
R7 – ch 5 (counts as 1st dc + 2ch), sc in the next 4ch-space, ch 2, *dc 2 in the next dc, ch2+sc1+ch2 in the next 4ch-space, repeat from* until the end of round and dc 1 in the beg space, sl st in 3rd beg ch.
R8 – ch 7 (counts as 1st dc + 4ch), *dc 1 in each next 2 dc, ch 4, repeat from*, dc 1 in the last dc and sl st in 3rd beg ch.
R9 – ch 5 (counts as 1st dc + 2ch), sc in the next 4ch-space, ch 2, *dc 1 in the next dc and dc 2 in the next dc (total 3 dc here), ch2+sc1+ch2 in the next 4ch-space, repeat from* until the end of round, then dc 1 in the next dc and dc 1 in the beg space, sl st in 3rd beg ch.
R10 – ch 7 (counts as 1st dc + 4ch), *dc 1 in each next 3 dc, ch 4, repeat from*, dc 1 in the next dc and dc 1 in the last dc, sl st in 3rd beg ch.
R11 – ch 5 (counts as 1st dc + 2ch), sc in the next 4ch-space, ch 2, *dc 1 in the next 2 dc and dc 2 in the next dc (total 4 dc here), ch2+sc1+ch2 in the next 4ch-space, repeat from* until the end of round, then dc 1 in the next 2 dc and dc 1 in the beg space, sl st in 3rd beg ch.

R12 – ch 7 (counts as 1st dc + 4ch), *dc 1 in each next 4 dc, ch 4, repeat from*, dc 1 in the next 3 dc, sl st in 3rd beg ch.
R13 – sl st in eah next 4 ch and in the next dc, ch 3, dc 1 in each next 2 dc and dc 2 in the next dc, *ch2+sc1+ch2 in the next 4ch-space, dc in each next 3 dc and dc 2 in the next dc, repeat from* 28 more times, leave 1st and last dc-part unworked (you have worked total of 30 dc-parts).
NB! from now on you will turn your work after each round.
R14 – turn and ch 3, dc 1 in each next 4 dc, *ch 4, dc 1 in each next 5 dc, repeat from*, end the row where you started R13 (make the last dc in beg 3rd ch).
R15 – turn and sl st in each next 4 dc and in each 4 ch and in the next dc, ch 3 and dc 1 in each next 3 dc, dc 2 in the last dc, *ch2+sc1+ch2 in the next 4ch-space, dc in each next 4 dc and dc 2 in the next dc, repeat from* 26 more times (total of 28 dc-parts worked).
R16 – turn and ch 3, dc 1 in each next 5 dc, *ch 4, dc 1 in each next 6 dc, repeat from*, end the row where you started R15 (make the last dc in beg 3rd ch).
R17 – turn and sl st in each next 5 dc and in each 4 ch and in the next dc, ch 3 and dc 1 in each next 4 dc, dc 2 in the last dc, *ch2+sc1+ch2 in the next 4ch-space, dc in each next 5 dc and dc 2 in the next dc, repeat from* 24 more times (total of 26 dc-parts worked).
R18 – turn and ch 3, dc 1 in each next 6 dc, *ch 4, dc 1 in each next 7 dc, repeat from*, end the row where you started R17 (make the last dc in beg 3rd ch).
R19-42 Repeat these 2 rounds (R13-14). On the last 42nd row you have only 2 dc-parts left and 19 dc in each. Fasten off.

If you like making doilies, check out the free patterns in my doily library: https://handmadebyraine.com/category/doilies/

Happy crocheting!

DISCLAIMER: I take no credit for this FREE pattern as it is not my design. DO NOT try to sell the pattern or pass it off as your own. However, you are welcome to sell your products made with the pattern. Unfortunately I don’t have the name but thank you to the designer of this free pattern!

Some links are affiliate, meaning I’ll make a small commission if you make a purchase, but this is at no cost to you.